Wilds are best eaten piping hot, not inside a restaurant but en plein air, at an oyster roast. The practice of cooking oysters over open fire belongs to a far greater, ancient tradition.

making sure to keep liquor inside shells. Quickly remove and discard top shells with tongs or heatproof gloves; loosen oysters from bottom shells. Top each oyster with a slice of tarragon butter.

Seafood connoisseurs consume oysters throughout most of the year across Long Island, often haphazardly discarding the empty shells slurp after slurp. But local advocates say those shells could go on ...